Nestled on the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island, Port Renfrew is a hidden gem with a wild natural beauty. This coastal community, once inaccessible from the rest of Vancouver Island, has evolved from its logging roots into a destination that draws adventurers and nature lovers seeking an escape from the crowds and a breath of fresh Pacific air.
Both a historical hub for timber operations and a gateway to wilderness exploration, Port Renfrew is a bit of a contradiction. Its location at the edge of the Pacific Ocean is the start and end point of two different famed wilderness coastal trails, the West Coast Trail and the Juan de Fuca Trail. Port Renfrew is also the site of large anti-logging protests, as activists and First Nations groups seeking to defend the last remaining unprotected stands of old growth forest clash with large logging companies.
As the region shifts towards conservation and ecotourism, these same old growth forests attract visitors eager to witness the primeval beauty for themselves. Dubbed the “Tall Tree Capital of Canada”, Port Renfrew is the place to come see giant cedars, spruce, and firs that have been alive since before white man came to Vancouver Island. In addition to its impressive forests, Port Renfrew is also home to spectacular ocean views as well as a few lesser-known Vancouver Island waterfalls . Port Renfrew is still a small village that lacks a lot amenities (including cell service!). Most of the attractions in the region are accessed by driving bumpy gravel logging roads, so make sure you’re prepared.
Tips for Visiting Port Renfrew
Many of the ecotourism attractions around Port Renfrew are accessed by driving along active logging roads. As always when driving active logging roads, be alert for logging trucks coming towards you. They will not slow down or brake, and many make very little effort to move to the side so it is up to you to get out of the way. For more information on the do’s and don’ts of driving logging roads click here.
When in the outdoors it’s important to avoid harmful practices such as disturbing plants or rock-stacking , or removing any natural object from flowers to rocks, as it’s important to leave the environment as natural as possible for the animals and for fellow hikers to enjoy in perpetuity. As many flowers as there are, there are few enough that if we all took one, then there wouldn’t be any left. Take only photos, leave only footprints.
I also highly recommend reading up on Leave No Trace principles before heading anywhere into the outdoors in general. Following these important principles basically means doing your best to leave beautiful places like Port Renfrew as good (if not better) than you found them, both for their preservation and for the enjoyment of other visitors.
Visit Avatar Grove
Avatar Grove has been officially closed for a couple of years, though it still receives daily visitors. I don’t recommend visiting at this time. If you do choose to disregard the closure, be aware of the safety risks and step carefully and lightly to avoid further damaging the trail or the surrounding beautiful forest.
The most well known of all the old growth groves in the region, and the most accessible place to see big trees near Port Renfrew, Avatar Grove offers two fantastic trails that lead underneath some absolutely majestic trees, including one photo-worthy specimen known as “Canada’s Gnarliest Tree”. The grove was discovered and developed for visitors by the Ancient Forest Alliance , and was protected by the provincial government in 2012. Sadly the the trails have fallen into disrepair, and the process of repairing them held up by bureaucracy, leading to the current official closure.
Explore Botanical Beach
Renowned for its rich and vibrant tide pools as well its beautifully rugged views, Botanical Beach is one of the must-visit attractions near Port Renfrew. This unique beach is the westernmost point of the coastal Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, and one end of the 47 km Juan de Fuca Trail, a rugged coastal hiking trail that takes several days to complete. Those that aren’t hardened long-distance trekkers will be pleased to know that the trail down to Botanical Beach is relatively short and easy, with only a gradual incline from the parking lot down to the shore. From there the rocky shore is yours to explore, though it’s important to take great care not to touch or damage any of the sea life that call it home.
Meet Big Lonely Doug
Located in the center of a cutblock up a valley not from Port Renfrew, Big Lonely Doug is Canada’s second-largest douglas fir as well as a stark symbol of the fight to save the remaining giant old-growth trees from clearcutting. Once a part of the beautiful Christy Clark Grove of old growth trees, Big Lonely Doug was the only tree left standing after the surrounding forest was demolished in 2012. Nowadays new growth is starting to come in around Big Lonely Doug, but the contrast between the monolithic tree and the surrounding cutblock is as poignant as ever. Big Lonely Doug is accessible from the same logging road as Eden Grove so I highly recommend combining the two into a single trip. The road to reach the two is further and more challenging than the road to nearby Avatar Grove however, so make sure to be prepared for logging road conditions.
Explore Eden Grove
Eden Grove is, in my opinion, the most beautiful place to see big old growth trees near Port Renfrew. This fantastic grove of old growth has trees has recently had a new wooden boardwalk lovingly installed, and the walk through the forest is just magical. The journey to reach the grove requires a bit more work however, but as Eden grove is accessed from the same logging road as Big Lonely Doug, the two combined make for a great outing near Port Renfrew.
Relax on Pacheedaht Beach
Pacheedaht Beach is an incredible spot literally minutes from Port Renfrew, and a must-visit location in the area. This 2 kilometre sandy beach is perfect for exploring, and offers incredible views thanks to its largely undeveloped treeline. The only exception is the fantastic Pacheedaht Campground located right next to the beach, which is one of the best places to stay in Port Renfrew.
Stop for a Photo at Fairy Lake
The Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree is probably the most photographed spot anywhere near Port Renfrew. This iconic Douglas Fir is miraculously growing out of a much older log sticking out of Fairy Lake. The photo spot is located right off the road, but if you want to spend more time at Fairy Lake it’s a perfect place for canoeing or swimming.
Discover Falls Creek Falls
Falls Creek Falls is a rarely-visited waterfall only a short distance from Port Renfrew. This fantastic waterfall is accessible via a short drive along logging road and an even shorter walk upstream along an old trail. In my opinion, a visit to Falls Creek Falls is one of the absolute best things to do near Port Renfrew. While visiting Falls Creek Falls please don’t stack rocks – let’s keep this place untouched by human hands for the next visitor.
Relax at Lizard Lake
Lizard Lake is another fantastic lake located near Port Renfrew, and offers several great recreation opportunities. More developed than nearby Fairy Lake, Lizard Lake offers a campsite from which people can launch canoes, as well as a purportedly somewhat overgrown train circling the lakeshore. If you plan on camping at or even just visiting Lizard Lake, keep in mind that there are no trash cans so you’ll have to pack out what you pack in. Or better yet, bring a garbage bag and see if you can pack out anything left by other less conscientious campers.
Harris Creek Spruce
The Harris Creek Spruce is the easiest giant old growth tree near Port Renfrew to visit, as it’s located only a thirty second walk away from the highway in a small provincial recreation area north of Port Renfrew. This fantastic tree has a giant base and reaches up much higher than the surrounding trees. A small fence has been built around the tree to protect the roots from careless trampling but selfish tourists have damaged the fence making it easier for them to climb over. As a visitor, remember it’s your responsibility to help protect these trees for other people to enjoy – there are tons of great selfies you can take without hopping the fence like a jerk.
San Juan Spruce
The San Juan Spruce, once the second-largest Sitka Spruce in the world, sadly lost a lot of its height as a result of a lightning strike in 2016. Further wind has caused parts of the tree to collapse, and for that reason the small campsite near the tree has been closed. It is still very possible to visit what remains of this impressive tree however, and though it is no longer remarkable in its height it is still an impressively wide tree. Due to the risk of further branches falling I would advise against visiting the San Juan Spruce when it’s windy.
Red Creek Fir
The Red Creek Fir is one of the more difficult to access superlative trees located near Port Renfrew, with the drive in on logging roads being longer and more challenging than any of the others. That said, an opportunity to see the world’s largest known Douglas Fir is one that’s hard to pass up if you have a vehicle that can manage the road in. The short trail up to the Red Creek Fir also passes by several giant spruce trees, making it a fantastic trip to take from Port Renfrew. If you plan on also visiting the San Juan Spruce – it’s on the way – so I highly recommend visiting the two together.
Recommended Hiking Gear
Water is a must whenever I’m hiking, especially if the sun is going to be out. My favourite water filter I’ve used is the Katadyn BeFree 0.6L , which unlike other water filters I’ve used packs up really small and lightweight. For hikes where I know there won’t be any readily available water sources along the way, I make sure to bring my own. The Hydrapak Stow 1L bottle is my go-to, for the same reason that it’s made of a soft plastic that folds up and doesn’t take up any more extra space than necessary in my pack. Finally, Aquatabs are another great option for purifying water, with one tablet being suitable for one litre of water. I previously used the Grayl water filter while travelling internationally, and though I found its hard body more convenient for day to day use and easier to drink from, it has a little too much bulk for my fast-and-light style of hiking.
The secret to all my photos of gorgeous sunset and sunrise mountaintop views? A lot of hiking in the dark. And let me speak from personal experience when I say that the last thing that you want to happen when hiking is to be caught in the dark without a headlamp. I used the Black Diamond Spot 400 for years and it worked great – until I lost it on top of a mountain somewhere. The only downside to it was having to worry about the batteries dying, though there’s also a slightly more expensive version that has a rechargeable battery . Nowadays I’m using the Petzl Actik Core , which is a bit pricier than the more budget-friendly Black Diamond, but is also brighter, more comfortable (in my opinion), and has a hybrid power system that is rechargeable but can also take AAA batteries if needed.
You won’t see me using trekking poles on shorter hikes often – but on long hikes and backpacking trips, as well as certain scrambles, they are an absolute lifesaver. I’ve invested in a high quality ultra-lightweight pair of MSR DynaLock Ascent carbon poles which, while pricey, I don’t regret one bit. If you’re not entirely sure how much use you’re going to get out of a pair of trekking poles, the best budget-friendly option would be the Trekology Trek Z 2.0 . Amazon does sell a lot of cheaper Made in China-style trekking poles for cheaper, but these usually are much much heavier and not worth buying.
All the best and most long-lasting cables and power banks I’ve ever owned have been Anker. I once had a phone cable from them that lasted me over three years of daily use! That’s why I keep an Anker PowerCore Essential 20K power bank on me. Like many people I use my phone for a lot of stuff when hiking (checking in with family, using online maps, taking photos, flying my drone) so I like to be prepared for that low battery warning by having a backup power source on me just in case.
The only socks I ever buy for myself are from Darn Tough , and I almost always make sure to wear them when hiking. After years of having no problems only wearing these comfortable and rugged socks for hikes, I accidentally wore a pair of no-name socks on a hike last year and ended up with blisters on both feet. Safe to say I’m back to sticking with the Darn Tough. And the best part? They have a lifetime guarantee, meaning that if they ever wear out you can send them back for a brand new pair. For hiking footwear I go between a pair of lightweight approach shoes for quick and dirty mountain ascents or anything involving scrambling and more heavy-duty boots for longer treks. I’ve worn a couple different versions of the lightweight but super durable Arc’teryx Konseal FL 2 approach shoes for a few years now and am very impressed with the durability. I also really like the thick toecap that keeps me protected every time I stumble into a root or large rock. For longer, tougher, or muddier treks I rely on my LOWA Camino EVO GTX , which I find insanely comfortable and made of very high quality.
I wear my Ar’teryx Gamma Lightweight Pants on every single hike I go on, and on many days when I’m not hiking. After several years of abuse they are still holding together extraordinarily well, with only a few small holes from where I’ve fallen down and some slight stains from being repeatedly coated with mud. They’re lightweight, breathable, and super comfortable. For lightweight and breathable hiking tops I’m a big fan of both the Patagonia Capilene Shirt and the MEC Core Shirt . My Arc’teryx Squamish Hoody shows up in a lot of my photos. It’s super lightweight and packable, and does a great job of cutting the wind while also being pretty breathable. I also have an Arc’teryx Atom Hoody and Arc’teryx Beta LT that I pull out for cooler or wetter conditions.
