Port Alberni, situated at the end of Vancouver island’s Alberni Inlet, is most well known as a place tourists stop for gas on the way to Tofino, but there’s actually a lot to do here. Originally named for the 18th century Spanish military commander Don Pedro de Alberni , the city is now evolving from its roots as a logging, milling, and fishing hub to a promising tourist destination.
One of my favourite things about Port Alberni is that despite technically being a coastal city, it’s surrounded by mountains in every direction – so whether you’re after fresh seafood or fantastic hiking, Port Alberni’s got you covered. In fact, the hikes surrounding Port Alberni are some of the best on Vancouver Island. Outdoor enthusiasts can explore spectacular waterfalls, high mountain vistas, and one of the last surrounding tiny patches of giant old growth trees left unrazed by the local logging industry.
If you’re not a hiker, then you’ll love relaxing on one of the beautiful local lakes, checking out local breweries, dining on the beautiful waterfront, or visiting the water buffalo at nearby Coleman Meadows Farm. And for culture and history lovers, make sure to check out the historic Alberni Valley Museum, with its extensive collection of First Nations art and artifacts, the Ahstik Native Art Gallery, and the McLean Mill National Historic Site, Canada’s only steam-operated sawmill. One of the most special spots in the region is an ancient panel of petroglyphs considered one of the finest in British Columbia.
In this guide, I’ve detailed all the best things to do in and around Port Alberni, but if you think I’ve missed something (and I probably have), feel free to let me know!
Explore Cathedral Grove
Tourists come from all over the world in order to see the last few remaining old-growth trees on Vancouver Island, many of which are still in danger of logging today. The tiny protected area of Cathedral Grove just outside of Port Alberni is one of the best places to see some of these 1000 year-old trees that have been protected. There are two short walks through the grove, and it’s impossible to miss – the highway passes right through it on the way into Port Alberni.
Indigenous peoples utilized the area for ceremonial purposes long before European settlers arrived, with evidence of culturally modified trees dating as far back as AD 1137. The site was a popular tourist stop all the way back in the 1920s, but despite public pressure and advocacy for its preservation, H.R. MacMillan, the so-called “Emperor of Wood”, refused to give it up and was instead intent on clearcutting it all. Eventually he reportedly stormed out of a public meeting shouting, “All right, you can have the god-damn grove!”, slamming the door on his way out. The area was officially designated as a Class A provincial park in 1947, and is now one of the very few places near Port Alberni where the old growth giants remain.
See Ancient Petroglyphs
The panel of prehistoric petroglyphs located on the shores of Sproat Lake is generally regarded as one of the finest in British Columbia, and a must-see while visiting Port Alberni. Known as K’ak’awin (a Nuu-chah-nulth word for Orca), the site was written about for the first time in 1868, but tha actual age is nearly impossible to determine. The nine marine creatures depicted may represent mythic interpretations of supernatural orcas, a motif echoed in whaling artifacts like harpoons and canoes. Some creatures possibly identified in the panel include a Seawolf – a half-wolf half-orca animal, and a Lightning Snake – the manifestation of lightning, which combines bird, wolf and fish characteristics. The panel of petroglyphs is located on the shore of Sproat Lake, and sadly subject to constant erosion, meaning it won’t be around forever. The short five minute walk to get to it also reveals some scenic views of Sproat Lake, one of the most beautiful areas near Port Alberni.
Eat Like a Local
Port Alberni offers a diverse dining scene that caters to a wide range of tastes, but of course the headline here is seafood. There are numerous places in town that are known for having either the best seafood chowder and fish and chips, but you’ll have to try them yourself to decide your favourite. Highlights for seafood lovers include the scenic waterfront Starboard Grill , Bare Bones Fish House (which is in an old converted church), and the family-favourite Clam Bucket . In addition to seafood, look for locally harvested or foraged ingredients, highlighted on the menus of Antidote Distillery , Brie & Barrel , Grassroots, Broken Bow , and Wildflower Bakeshop & Cafe . Give your sweet tooth what it needs at The Donut Shop or Mountain View Bakery & Delicatessen , and last but not least make sure to experience one of the last 50’s-style drive-in burger joints anywhere at J&L Drive-In.
Take a Hike
Port Alberni is not a hiking destination. Oh yes, it has some absolutely fantastic hikes, but you’ll have them mostly to yourself. The logging company that owns all of the forest lands surrounding Port Alberni (including those that local hikes pass through) makes it challenging for local hikes to be promoted in any official capacity. As long as you don’t mind the sound of distant (or not so distant) chainsaws echoing through the valley, the trails here are relatively quiet.
One of the most iconic peaks anywhere on Vancouver Island, Mt Arrowsmith, offers unparalleled views of the southern Island, and is one of the best hikes near Port Alberni. Several peaks above Cameron Lake also make for great hikes, including Mt Wesley and Mt Horne. Plus, the abandoned railway trestles alongside the lake also make a great hiking destination on their own. Other shorter hikes with stellar views include the short Alberni Valley Lookout and Mt Hankin Bluffs. So whatever your hiking skill level, there’s something in the area – and that’s not even mentioning all the spectacular waterfalls worth hiking to. (Keep reading for more on those!)
Walk Around Harbor Quay
Port Alberni’s Harbour Quay is a scenic waterfront hub that offers the most spectacular view from within any city on Vancouver Island (name a better one – I dare you). This is the best place in all of Port Alberni, and every tourist who drives through without checking out Port Alberni’s Harbour Quay is missing out. Views of the Alberni Inlet aside, the Quay is home to a colorful array of shops and eateries, as well as community events like the regular farmer’s market.
Visit Ahtsik Gallery
Founded in 2008 by master carver Gordon Dick, Ahtsik Native Art Gallery is well-known for its collection of Nuu-chah-nulth, Kwakiutl, Coast Salish, and other regional First Nations art. These pieces include masks, panels, sculptures, doors, poles, and house beams, all handmade with a high level of craftsmanship. Visitors are encouraged to visit the gallery and see the variety of art, as well as to potentially see Gordon at work in his studio. Don’t trust the hours on Google though – it’s open either by reserving ahead of time or by just showing up and being lucky.
Relax at Local Lakes
Cameron Lake is one of the most beautiful landmarks all visitors pass by on their way into Port Alberni. It’s impossible to miss on the right side of the highway as you’re driving in, but if you have a keen eye you might be able to see the abandoned railway trestles on the opposite side of the lake. There are a couple of different picnic areas alongside the lake offering opportunities to get closer.
Sproat Lake was originally known as Kleecoot, meaning “wide open” by the indigenous Nuu-chah-nulth and spanning over 25 kilometers in length and boasting 90.8 kilometers of shoreline, it’s a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. The lake is home to three provincial parks: Sproat Lake Provincial Park, Taylor Arm Provincial Park, and Fossli Provincial Park, providing tons of opportunities for a range of activities from swimming and boating to hiking and camping. It was even voted BC’s best lake in 2023.
Loon Lake is much smaller than the other two lakes, but the small campground, dock, and hiking trail around the lake make it a great spot to visit. Oh, plus it offers one of the most spectacular views of imposing Mt Arrowsmith you’ll find anywhere in the area.
Get a Taste of Local at the Farmer’s Market
The Spirit Square Farmers’ Market in Port Alberni is a market that operates year-round, providing a central venue for local farmers to connect with the community. Located in the beautiful Harbour Quay, this market offers farm-fresh produce, eggs, and jams and preserves, as well as local artisans and crafters who showcase a wide array of locally crafted items.
The market operates every Saturday from 9 am to 12 noon, making it a perfect stop for those looking to support local agriculture and get a tasty souvenir to take home.
Learn About History at the Alberni Valley Museum
The small Alberni Valley Museum is well-known for its collection reflecting the area’s past, including First Nations culture, local and industrial history, and folk art. Using a unique Visible Storage system, it allows visitors full access to its collection along with detailed catalogues. It offers a variety of temporary exhibits, school programs, and public programs, and is a great way to spend some time while in Port Alberni. Admission is by donation.
Discover Local Breweries
Port Alberni is home to several breweries that are earning awards and producing beers way better than you might expect. Dog Mountain Brewing is my favourite place to stop anytime I’m in town for the beer as well as the views from the large, dog-friendly rooftop patio. Twin Cities Brewing has become quite decorated with beer awards, and the pizza is arguably as delicious as the beer. Finally, Alberni Brewing Company has the largest taproom of any of the local breweries, and is always busy with locals.
Hike the Alberni Inlet Trail
Vancouver Island has its fair share of iconic coastal hikes, from the popular West Coast Trail and Juan de Fuca Trail to slightly lesser-known ones like the North Coast Trail and Nootka Trail. One trail that falls almost completely under the radar is the Alberni Inlet Trail, running a total of 30 km along the Alberni Inlet, broken up into three stages. It’s a rugged trail that is typically done section by section, with only a handful of hikers completing the entire thing in one go.
Meet the Water Buffalo at Coleman Meadows Farm
I’ve tried water buffalo dairy whilst living in Southeast Asia, but to say I was surprised to find a water buffalo farm in Port Alberni would be a bit of an understatement. But it turns out Vancouver Island’s mild climate provides an ideal environment for these animals, first domesticated over 7,000 years ago in what is now modern-day China. Who knew.
The River Water Buffalo, distinct from other buffalo species, is primarily a dairy animal, known for its adaptability and the quality of its milk and meat, and its the species you’ll find at Coleman Meadows Farm.
As we drove onto the farm, we were greeted with a “good morning!” and a wave from everyone we passed, but the water buffalo themselves were arguably even friendlier. Aside form getting up close and personal with the water buffalo (they love a pet), this is a great place to try water buffalo dairy and meat – from gelato to cheese to yoghurt to even soap!
Marvel at Local Waterfalls
You don’t have to explore far from Port Alberni to find spectacular waterfalls. In fact, I’ve been to 11 spectacular waterfalls that are all barely out of town. There’s a wide range of accessibility here, with some being accessed via short and level strolls, with some on the other end requiring downclimbing steep muddy slopes withe aid of ropes. None of the hikes are super long however, and if you’re ambitious it’s not too hard to visit multiple in one day.
Try Local Spirits at Antidote Distillery
Antidote Distilling Company describes their products as a “postcard for the Alberni Valley”, and while they may be thinking local, they’re already achieving recognition internationally. This Port Alberni distillery has aleady received multiple awards including at the San Francisco International Spirits Competition, and their products can already be found in liquor stores across Vancouver Island. Bottles are made of 100% recycled glass, and the distillery takes back empty bottles and exchanges them for discounted full ones, cleaning and reusing the old bottles. Furthering their commitment to sustainability, they also recycle and reuse water for cleaning. They currently have two award winning gins – a London dry and a black gin made with locally foraged black truffles, morel, shiitake and chanterelle mushrooms to give it a distinct dark colour and earthy flavour. The addition of sustainably foraged salal berries gives it a sweetness, and causes it to turn a sultry violet when tonic is added. Their two gins as well as a limited edition black truffle vodka can be sipped neat or enjoyed in a variety of delicious cocktails in their newly opened tasting lounge, where their tasty drinks are accompanied by local-inspired dishes. Make sure to make a reservation in advance, as otherwise you’re unlikely to get in.
Travel Back in Time at Mclean Mill
The McLean Mill National Historic Site offers a unique glimpse into the past, presenting a well-preserved example of the mid-20th century logging and sawmilling operation that once saw Port Alberni’s economy booming. (This was before logging nearly the entirety of old growth forest in the Alberni Valley. Once they ran out of big trees to cut down, profits dried up.)
Acquired by the City of Port Alberni in 1988 and restored with funds from Parks Canada and Forest Renewal BC, the site spans 12.8 hectares and includes 35 buildings and structures that encapsulate the essence of a self-contained logging community centered around a steam-powered sawmill. There’s a strange eerie feeling walking freely around all the abandoned buildings and vehicles – when we visited there was no one else there, really making it feel even more like a ghost town.
See the Hole in the Wall
Back when locals’ water was provided by old wooden stave pipes that connected Rogers Creek to the town, a hole was created through a steep shale cliff for the pipeline to go through. Today, remains of the old pipes can be found in the forest near the creek, but the iconic hole in the wall is left empty, allowing Rogers Creek to connect onto itself. It’s a peculiar and beautiful spot, with the strange circular hole seeming almost as if it could have been made naturally. It’s also one of the most popular attractions in Port Alberni, accessible by a short downhill walk from the highway.
It’s popularity is a curse though, as there isn’t adequate parking along the highway to allow for people to safely access the attraction. The best option is to park across the highway and sprint across, but concerned locals worry that it’s an accident waiting to happen.
Shop for Souvenirs at The Salty Woodsman
I don’t make it a secret that I think most souvenirs are tacky wasteful pieces of garbage that have no connection to the destination other than the fact that someone in Huangzhou, China slapped the words ‘I Love Canada’ on it. Why someone would want that I don’t know, especially when there are far better souvenirs and gifts out there that are locally made and actually unique to the place you’re visiting.
If local products are what you’re after, then the Salty Woodsman in Port Alberni is the place to check out. Shop everything from locally made craft chocolate to jewellery to cards and more, plus frozen local seafood! Whether you’re looking for something for yourself, or a gift for someone else back home, The Salty Woodsman is the perfect place to find something uniquely ‘Vancouver Island’.
Make a Pit Stop in Coombs
The Old Country Market in Coombs has been a landmark tourist spot for over 50 years, located just outside of Port Alberni along the highway. Originally starting off as a roadside stand offering fresh produce in the 70s, it has expanded into a diverse marketplace featuring international gifts, groceries, great food, and last but not least the iconic resident goats living on the roof from May to October. To many tourists driving to or from the west coast, a stop in Coombs to see the goats is a must-do.
There’s actually a decent amount to do in Coombs if you want to kill some time, as a number of businesses have popped up catering to tourists, from a donut shop to an Italian restaurant and more. Personally I like to stop in the market to grab some candied salmon for the rest of the drive, but it’s also hard not to see if anything else catches your eye while you’re there.
